Untitled Document

Whernside and the Craven Wold.

Start. Ribblehead.

Route. Ribblehead - Bleamoor Sidings - Blue Clay Ridge - Little Dale - Slack Hill - Force Gill Ridge - Grain Ings - Cable Rake Top - Whernside - Cable Rake Top - Knoutberry Hill - Whernside Tarns - Boot of the Wold - Craven Wold - Duncan Sike Foot - Seavey Bottom - Force Gill Ridge - Slack Hill - Little Dale - Blue Clay Ridge - Bleamoor Sidings - Ribblehead.

Notes. Whernside not the most impressive peak when you look across the valley to it’s slightly lower more dramatic brother Ingleborough, but it can boast to being the highest peak in the Yorkshire Dales. The massive whale back ridge rising between Kingsdale and Twisleton Dale starts with it’s roots deep in the Ingleton Glens, it’s northern rounded end spilling eight miles further north into Upper Dentdale.

Nearly all walkers attack the hill via the Three Peaks Paths, although there are some excellent routes from Dentdale, today I decided to do something you won’t find in any guide book. Climb the hill from Ribblehead, then after topping out double back to descend the Craven Wold an old packhorse route between Dent and Ingleton, a route once used by horse trains and travelers carrying coal, wool and farm products.

I started by following the well trod Three Peaks Path from Ribblehead, this ascended to Bleamoor Sidings before passing under Blue Clay Ridge, after fording a couple of beck's the path crossed an aqueduct carrying water from Force Gill over the Settle to Carlisle Railway, the climbing started directly. The path was obvious it ushered me to a gate, I passed through before continuing above Grain Ings into the wilderness of Whernside, above Greensett Moss I climbed to access the mountains summit ridge.

Once on the top I sat a while, it was one of those rare occasions when you have the top to yourself, a moment to savour. Rest over I re-traced my steps to a small wooden stile over a wire fence, this I crossed it allowed access to Knoutberry Hill and Whernside Tarns. The path a green trod was wet, it guided me through bog and over peat hags, passed the tarns before descending through more bog to access the Craven Way at The Boot of the Wold.

With the old packhorse route to guide me I headed south through stunning views and equally stunning scenery, at Duncan Sike Foot a ruinous building greeted me. I read somewhere on these moors an old inn stands, it even gave a name but it’s slipped my mind, most guide books refer to this building as a barn, as it is the only structure on the Craven Wold I’d like to think it was the inn.

From the ruinous building the way wound uphill to it’s highest point, I crossed the watershed before stopping at Seavey Bottom for something to eat before the descent to Little Dale. This path wasn’t the best, rough under foot washed out by Yorkshires inclement weather, it didn’t improve until reaching the gate I passed through earlier, with the Three Peaks Path now under foot the going was easier. Down Force Gill Ridge, back into Little Dale, under Blue Clay Ridge passed Bleamoor Sidings and down to Ribblehead, journeys end and didn’t I know it. I’d been running on empty for the last few miles, the Station Inn was there just inviting me inside, well I couldn't refuse now could I.

view route map.

home.

The Ribblehead Viaduct carries the Settle to Carlisle Railway over Batty Moss, behind it's head in cloud Whernside.

Seen from near Bleamoor Sidings, Park Fell with Ingleborough under cloud.

Force Gill Aqueduct.

Lower Force (Force Gill), every year thousands of walkers pass this magnificent spectacle, but few leave the path for a closer look, today that includes me.